karma 'Happy Toes' Gardens

 

             Introduction

 

"Breathtaking, awesome and even fantastic" are the remarks that we hear from folks that come to visit

our gardens and see these remarkable plants.  This information found on our home page needs repeating.

 

But to this day there is a great confusion over these plants that at one time were classified under the

same genus of Datura.  In the 1970's, each Brugmansia and Datura were given their own genus and it's has

been a task to educate folks to the differences, especially in the European countries where they are still

being called Daturas today.

 

Brugmansis, orginally/commonly known as Angel's Trumpet, are the tree/shrub forms that can be traced back

to the Inuit South American Indians and can be found all the way south, into the mountains of South America. 

It has the downward facing bell shaped flowers, hence the name of Angel Trumpets that most folks call them. 

Their seedpods can range from a round shape to being elongated like a bean pod only larger; it just depends on

the variety/species used in the hybridizing process.

 

 

     

 B. Sanguinea Orange       B, Sunray       B. arborea         B.aurea culebra     B. candida

 

The Brugmansia seeds come in a corky seed coat and there is a trick to getting them started.  One needs to soak

the seeds in very warm water for at least 24-48 hours, changing the water a few times a day to be able to peel

the outer corky coat.  Here we use the 'karma cocktail' which we find helps soften the outer corky coat.  We also 

recommended that you place the container that contains the seeds you are soaking on top of the refridgerator where

the water will stay warmer longer.  Just do not forget them up there!  If the seeds are fresh, a shorter period of

time should be used and you should handle them with care as some may sprout in this time period.  Also some folks

will plant them direct without removal of the corky coat due to they are fresh,  which we do not advise this route 

as the seedling may not be able to grow out of the corky coat and you may find these harder to remove once the start

growing.

 

 

       

 

  When talking about varieties of Brugmansia, these are the major ones; B. arborea, B. candida, B. sanguinea,

B. vulcanicolas, B. sauveolens, B. aurea, and B. versicolor.

 

  As new hybrids are created, this list will expanded as we now are seeing the B. X flave, for an example, which

is a cross of B. arborea X B. sanguinea.  Yet another new hybrid of B. vulcanicola called 'Roter Vulkan' is the

deepest of the red ones and one on our wish list. 

 

  While we haven't seen that purple brugmansia that folks dream about, we hope this will someday happen. One can

enjoy cousin Iochroma that does come in a plum color until this dream comes true.     
 
   

Brugmansia Snowbank    B. Miner’s Claim   Our Fake Purple
 
  There has been some talk on hybridizing of Brugmansia X Datura which one can find information on this at

the American Brugmansia and Datura Society's website (sorry that site is gone), Dr.  Richard Sanders has

supplied this information there.  These plants have the appearance of the Brugmansia due to the mother plant. 

After reading this information, I took the path in the other direction to create our  Datura X Brugmansia  =

'Datmansia.'   Yes, our creation had the ‘Datura Mother’ and their appearance is more on the Datura side.  We

have now been able to do this cross with two different ‘Brugmansia Fathers’ while we use the same ‘Datura Mother,’

 D. Missouri Marble, which was a tissue culture plant.  We have been playing with this cross in hopes to create 

a variegated plant, one needs to know variegation before attempting this path! (Variegation they say doesn't

carry forward.)

 

  Brugmansia is one plant that will take all the fertilizer that you give it but be warned. Yes, you can over

fertilize these and it's not a pretty picture when you do. These will reward you with breathtaking evening-scented

trumpet flowers if done correctly.  These are night bloomers and related to the nightshade/solanaceae family. Yes,

these are extremely poisonous. In some areas of the country, some municipalities have even gone to great lengths

to ban them. If you decide to grow these, please use good judgment and do handle these with care as they are not

to be taken lightly.

 

 

 
  A typical multi-purpose fertilizer has three numbers on it. The numbers are percentages of usable nutrients:

 

 

 

  The main nutrient tends to be nitrogen, but too much of it will cause plants to grow fast with few or no

flowers or fruit. There are many micro nutrients also which these plants especially need.
 
  I do recommend a multi purpose/NPK formula fertilizer for a newbie just getting started with these. It is

wise to learn what your plants can and should do before heading down a path that some of us serious growers take. 

 

  There are some growers who have learned to push these plants to produce hundreds of blooms in their second or

even third flush by feeding their brugmansia a higher middle number/phosphorus, which produces blooms. Some growers

will also feed their plants rose or time release fertilizers. You must know your plants before you try any of these

methods, please.   It’s truly about timing and knowing to switch and when to stop, heed the gospel warnings, it’s

not a pretty picture when one over does this.
 
  Being someone who does play with her plants, I have learned that by feeding them a higher first number/nitrogen

during the first couple months (March 1st - April 1st), I can obtain height. I then switch to the higher middle number/phosphorus for blooms for a couple months (April 15th - July 15th.) Then I move to an overall formula

fertilizer for the last months end of July - Sept 1st.) After that, I stop all feeding so that the plant can go

into its dormant stage for the winter (we overwinter ours in their own ‘Brugmansia House’ with the temps set in

the mid 40-50's range).  If one goes this route, please modify this for your area and region, do not follow this

as it is for the Pacific Northwest/Southwest WA State where we are located.  This is not gospel for all regions

or growers!
 
  Not every Brugmansia is created equally!  Each has their own set of requirements or environments that will help

them reach their full potential.  It's best to know the name of your Brugmansia so that an expert can give you a

direction as to if they will grow in sunny or shade environments.  There are also Brugmansias out there that do

not like their tops cut off and some that hate to have their roots disturb. 
 
  While these plants are high maintenance, there are some easy clean cultural habits that will take care of most

problems. Just remember to clean your tools between each plant cutting, spray on a regular bases to keep the

critters at bay and practice safe trading or purchasing! Did you know that Brugmansias loves a little clay or

heavier soil and not the rich soils?  So many times we are asked what type of soil we use there.  Beings the

PNW has the natural clay/acid soils we find it’s best to add this to the HD soil we buy called Earthgro.  This

too helps them with the stability issues when grown in pots.   We shy away from soils that already have fertilizers

added to them.
 
Part  II 
                Brugmansia by seasons. . . . . .
    
        

  

 Spring, moving them outside.  Keeping them stripped.
 

   
       
1 1/2 months outside with min fertilizer, then late summer.

     
    

    

  Starting the stripping process as the fall crocus bloom,

 next it will be taking cuttings.
   

    

 

  It's just that time of year when they want to really bloom but we

all know to enjoy the last ones.
         
  

 

  Moving them inside and before they do they used to spend a couple weeks in the garage where we would spray

them a few times to make sure no critters came in and put sand on top of the soil for those that lay eggs will

find when they hatch the sand tears up their wings.  Also keep some yellow sticky tags handy just in case those

things above aren’t followed.  Paying younger members of your family a fee for dead critters is even an other

route one can take, but make sure you see the dead critter before paying!
 
                                                            
   Being inside where they get less water and enjoyed the warmth besides taking up space.  It was so much of a

chore to bring these huge pots inside.  No more will we see them inside and now they have their own home during

the winter months! 

  In the fall we put up a temporary ‘Brugmansia House’ due to the local restrictions where we live that requires

a permit to put up a permanent Greenhouse.  So check you local requirements out before getting a greenhouse.  As

you can see we fill this house with many species of plants besides running the smaller greenhouse where the

tropicals heat lovers stay. 

    

  
 Part III  
          

  Word of caution: 'please know your growers or nursery if you are going to grow either Brugsmansia or Datura.'

Besides being poisonous and virus-prone (fungal, leaf spot, stalk wilt, mosaic-like disease to even cork growths),

you should know what insects bother these lovely ladies of the night. Several varieties of 'Mites' especially spider

& broad, aphids, whitefly and fruit gnats are fairly common. They also attract worms, caterpillars and snails. The

funny thing is I haven't seen a single worm, caterpillar or snail drop dead at the feet of any brug after destroying

one. It's extremely hard for us to talk about viruses when we take all the precautions we do here, so please google

these to find added information on viruses. It has also been interesting to track where some of

there viruses are coming from.
  
  Brugmansias do carry a virus gene and if not properly cared for it can pop up at a moment's notice. So if you

suspect a virus, please destroy the plant right away as to not infect other Brugmansias or plants. Most important,

do not toss infected parts onto the compost pile. Do not trade or pass along any plant that isn’t completely healthy.

The wisest thing to do is to quarantine your plants for a period of 9-12 months after discovering a virus-infected

plant.  This isn't commonly being done, so again be careful!
 
  While we are talking about virus and trading or even purchasing, it is time to weigh in on a quarantine process

that one should have setup for all new arrivals to your collection. Do you just buy and plant? In the case of

Brugmansias and Daturas, it is best to place all plants or cuttings in quarantine for a few months before adding them

to your garden. This is a good rule of thumb to use for any plant materials even if you do know and trust the nursery

or person you are trading/purchasing with. The only 100% safe way is to grow Brugmansias and Daturas is from seed. Seeds generally do not transmit viruses whereas cuttings always do. If you unsure of the seed source, you can dip the seeds

in a bleach mix of 1 part bleach with 9 parts water. There has been some talk that small tip cuttings, this too can be another route, this is the path we have taken with our B. Sanguinea Orange karma 06008 and find this route has served

us well.
                                                     
Part IV
            Hybridizing 101 

  These are the tools that we currently use besides nylons to close back up the bloom after we have pollinated

the stigma. As you can see we dry all anthers in small cups and then store them in air tight plastic baggies that

can be stored up to 5 years.   Here is the basic on the plant construction.
                                                       
                                                   
  The stigma is held in place by the style.  In the calyx you will fine the ovary and nectar channel. The pollen is

 found on the anther and the key to pollination is get to the stigma before any thing else does and making sure you

remove the anthers before you close the corolla tub so that nothing can get in.  Be sure you label what you have done

so that you know down the road.  Another key is knowing which species can be crossed, yes you can cross a Brugmansia

with a Datura and a Datura with a Brugmansia.  They aren't pretty but worth a try, just finding the right compatible

features and knowing that albinos are possible with variegated species.  The Datmansia photo below is the cross of

two light variegated species. 
     
  I would like to take this time to thank my dear friend Cheryl/MI for sharing her photos of bees getting to

Daturas before they  were open to show folks yes they can get in before one can get a chance to pollinate. 
 
     
   
  If you hybridize you need to make sure you get there before the insects do!  Once the bloom is open, it’s to

late. One should also note that Daturas can self pollinate.  One needs to remove the anthers before pollinating

said stigma and making sure the pollen is the only pollen that is applied.  Again be prepared for the naysayers

that will tear into you if you don't do this correctly.
  
 
Part V 
             Plant Etiquette
 
Do you do what is in the best interest of the species? 
Do you share patented plants?? 
Do you know the laws about obtaining seeds or plant material from over seas? 
Do you know why it's important to keep the name of the hybrider with the plant? 
Do you know the proper order when you list seeds on a packet of seeds?  
Do you buy seeds and then pass them off as your own?
Do you test plants and keep the hybrider aware of what you are testing? 
Do you then trade plants that you test without the hybrider being aware of this?  
If the hybridizer said to cull the plant you have tested and you pass this off as your own?  
When you have an open pollinated plant that has gone to seed, do you list it as open pollinated or do you guess
what plant is the parent? 
 
  Buying across the pond is a whole other issue, please check with your State's Agriculture Dept. to see what

they require and know just what you will be opened to. They too can tell you if plant material is passing their

tests or if you are just wasting your time and money.  
 
  There is more that can be added here but I think you get the picture that some of us are serious about what we

do, so how about you?
 

 
 Part  VI 
            More Research and Joining Organizations

 

  There are two books that have been published that some Brugmansia and Datura growers refer as the 'Bibles.'  I

would hope that you get a copy of one and read to get the basics down.  Please run a search on these books, other organization or websites.  It is our understanding that there are now 2 e-books that have been released.  Congrats

to both authors!
  
  I can't stress enough that you know the grower and know what you are purchasing!  Plus if you join an organization

know what you are getting into and what they do for your membership fee. Find out as much as you can before joining,

what are your rights when you pay a fee?
 
  This page is to give you a basic idea of that it takes to grow these and we welcome your questions. We have a page

with questions and answers so keep them coming.  If you want to talk to us direct please email us or now you can join

us at our private forum. 

 

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 
                                    

karmaHT Answers Your Questions from 2008 & 2009:
  For years now I have answered Brugmansia and Datura questions on 'Gardening Websites' and here is your chance to

ask directly! No question is dumb and we appreciate your asking them so we can help educate others.  Remember each

gardener has his/her own way so really you need to find what works best for you!  So read how some do it and them

you will get a general direction, remember what works best for some may not work for others.  Thank you, everyone

for stopping in.  You can see how we are doing by checking out the calendar area to see how many visitors and how

many pages were viewed.  We try to answer all questions personally but if your email has errors this makes it hard

to contact you direct.
 
Q. Do you have a Horticulture or Master Gardener background?
 
kHT's A.  No, my degree is in Art Education and I have acquired all my plant knowledge from either books or other gardeners. Many of my MG friends have told me I'm far beyond that and it would be a waste of my time to get that

MG certificate.  Matter of fact I do things that MG training would frown on but ya know when you have a passion

for nature it's more important to listen to that?  Mother Nature is the best teacher!!  Some of my gardener friends

have classified me as a 'Hardcore' gardener as I push the zones to the limit and many folks tell me I can't grow

what I do here? Thinking outside the box and dancing to the beat of a different drummer, plus holding folks accountable

would best fit.
 
Q. We would like to talk to you direct, can you call us?
 
kHT's A.  I'm sorry but I will not post my phone number on my site, we are a research garden and to keep expenses

down I do not call folks.  If you want to talk to us, email us and we can arrange a time to be around the phone so

you can call us so we don't play phone tag.
 
Q.  I see from your garden photos that you grow many other plants besides Brugmansia and Daturas but you only

specialize in the two, why? 
 
kHT's A.  I have many gardener friends that call me a hardcore gardener as I have so many species and like many

gardeners can't just have one of any plant. Our goal here was to have something blooming year around and one just

can't stop with one, right?  There are many generous gardeners out there that share photos and plant materials

that will feed ones addiction.  I have several friends that call me the 'keeper' of the plants. This past weekend

one lady stated this was better then going to a nursery as you can see them grow in a garden condition and ask

questions. I just love coming and spending time here to learn. It has become a love/passion with the Brugmansia

and Daturas to understand why they do what they do.  No two are the same and once you see them open at night and

smell the fragrance you too will be hooked. 
 
Q. Can you ship Brugs and Daturas? 
 
kHT's A. In the past week I have had several questions on shipping Brugmansia and Daturas, first when shipping

one needs to look at the cost of doing so.  Daturas aren't worth it unless you have one that is uncommon, best

to harvest seeds and send those. Next shipping dirt isn't wise and we feel all plants should be shipped bare

rooted.  Shipping in pots adds to the expense and if shipped correctly bare root plants will do just fine.  Soils

can harbor insects w/other items, matter of fact when we get a plant that has been shipped in dirt we remove all

the dirt and compost it so it will be cooked.  Shipping plants and cutting are basically the same, with laying

your plant material on paper towels and wrapping them so the the ends or roots are covered.  We then dip them in

water so the paper towel is wet but not dripping wet, wrapping in plastic and newspaper to protect while shipping

before placement in a shipping box.  We highly recommend priority shipping to make sure the package arrives in a

short period of time and it's less stress on the plants.  We also want folks to seriously think about when they

buy and trade plants, it's sure not a year around business!  If you buy/trade in the winter and think the plants

are going to arrive safely, think again!  Be smart and do so after the threat of frost!  You know it doesn't hurt

to ask if a nursery will hold your item until it's safe to ship?  Now that we have given you the basics, please

read some of the other sites.

 

Q.  Your Datmansia Project, what happened to it?

 

kHT's A. We are currently working on the 3rd generation of the Datmansia X Datmansia cross.  I have a friend whom

is also working on crossing theirs with different Daturas.  We are being very selective on whom we share seeds with

and have seen some amazing results.  We requested that the first generation be dug up but we are hearing back from

some that didn't do this and how they are seeing multi stalks.  With the cooler temps we are seeing yellowing of

the corolla bell and a lack of anthers/or pollen & stagna.  We have posted photos of some of the Datmansia on our

photobucket site if you are interested in seeing what is coming back.  Here in the PNW, we had one of our coldest

winters on record and we had 12 Datmansia return from the roots with no mulch at all. 

 

Q. Why are you not selling Brugmansias cuttings this year (2009)?

 

kHT's A. Sorry to say it was a bad year for Brugmansia here in the PNW due to our extreme heat.  There is also the

factor that we here have moved more towards the B. Sanguinea and their hybrids.  The regular Brugmansia we are

growing are seedlings that we are testing for others and have not been released. 

 
Q. I saw today that you stated that you didn't think 2 year period was enough time before naming a Brugmansia. 

I would like to hear why you feel 5 years is a better time period like you stated.
 
kHT's A.  I knew that would cause someone to question why!!  First we are talking about growing a Brugmansia from

seeds and we all know unless you push it really hard the first year to get a bloom that would happen in the fall,

one can not judge a bloom by the first one nor should one rush to name by the second year as we all know it's not

been tested by any other than the first year's grower. Some of us know that pushing the plant to bloom the first

year can also harm the plant, you want a healthy plant to root or share cuttings with.  Several flushes are also

a good time period to record the bloom's color, size and shapes.  Next you should send this out to have others test

to see if they have the same results and one year for a tester isn't enough.  So a general 5 year period should tell

folks you have a good stable plant that you have doc. the findings to support naming the said plant.  Remember your

name goes with this and if you don't think much of your name then rush to name whatever.
 

Q. Can you recommend a Brugmansia that is a shade lover for a newbie? Will these grow okay in my hosta garden?
 
kHT's A. One of my favorites that I highly recommend for a newbie is B. Charles
Grimaldi/Jutner Orange which starts off yellow and turns a golden orange as the bloom matures. This one has an

awesome evening fragrance!

       
Q. Should I start all my Brugmansia cuttings in water?
 
kht's A. I don't recommend starting them all in water.  Nor do I recommend leaving them in water over the winter

months.  Those that are easy to start in water should only be left in water, that you change regularly until you

see the white nubs form.  I have found that all variegated, Sanguineas, all fuzzy leaves from doubles to triples

to the rare Arborea and Culebra start better in dirt with bottom heat if you have that available.
 

Q. I want to grow a B. Sanguinea, I love the red and yellow color but live where it's hot, dry and humid.  Do you

think I should do one?
 
kHT's A.  If you try one I would put it on the north side of the house where you will get air circulation and know

these love cooler dry weather with air circulation.
 
 
Q. How do I know when my Brugmansia is going to bloom? 
 
kHT's A. When you see a leaf that has a subequal leaf base.   You will also find with a flower that the leaves in

this region are smaller than the norm.
   
 
 Q. Should I repot my Brugmansia cuttings as they are root bound and roots are coming out the bottom?  I have a

couple months before I can move them outside.
 
kHT's A. No, allow them to stay root bound because once you repot them it will send a message to the plant to grow

and we are looking at a space issue here.  Do you honestly think it's best for the plant to start growing so soon?

 
Q. Why do you keep the leaves stripped off during the winter months?
 
kHT's A.  For a host of many reasons, from insects control to the fact that inside leaves are much thinner than those

you will find outside.  You want the plant to focus on root development and not top growth during the winter months.
 

 

Q. Why should I stip off the leaves when moving these outside?
 
kHT's A.  As you can see from the photos below it's not a pretty site to sunburn them and this can happen even in

filtered light.  The leaves will grow back thinner as shown below.  Maybe some of those experts can tell you more if

you ask at those forum sites?  I can just show you what I see.
 
    
 
Q. How will know when it's safe to move my Brugmansia outside?
 
kHT's A.  First you should know the last 'Frost Date' for your area but again this isn't always a sure thing with

the 'Climate Changes' we are seeing.  We wait until we have a full 2 weeks of about 40 degrees for the night temps

and then we move them out, close to the house but knowing that one may have to move them if frost warnings come up. 

We then will have them in the garage or covered close to the house.
 

 

Q. Do you uses a product called Messenger?  This product is no longer available, the company has closed. 
 
kHT's A. Funny this question has come up as a couple gardeners at one site have been chatting about this product. Yes,

we use it and have been for a few years now.  Matter of fact I have been forbidden to use it in the veggie gardens. 
We use it on everything and only use it as recommended. I would recommend that you buy it direct from the great folks

there in Bothell, WA, all orders over $25 have free shipping. Let us know if you need more information or photos.
 
http://www.edenbio.com/ 

 

 

  
 
Q. I see you use Messenger, do you have any plants photos that you tested this one before using it on everything?
 
kHT's A. I used it for a few months in the early spring (Febr-April) on two Mandevillea that were the same age and

height while in the greenhouse.  We used this on the whole yard and we still use it today. So you be the judge,does

it work?

 
Q. I live in Canada and want to get cuttings?
 
kHT's A. First 'Fall' is time to get cuttings unless you can find some one trimming their Brugmansia in the southern

areas.  Also to ship to Canada, one should have all the proper papers to do so from the States.  Why not seek someone
up in Canada when searching for Brugmansia or how about trying seeds of which you can order from then from Europe. The

USA has some strict laws on shipping to Canada.
 

Q. On one of the garden sites you talked about B. Jutner Orange, where can I get one?
 
kHT's A. B. Jutner Orange is another name for B. Charles Grimaldi, which someone in Europe changed it's name so they

could sell it.  Again I can't stress knowing what you are buying and obtain plants from someone that knows about the

plant you seek. 
 

Q. I need to know how to space my Brugmansia in my garden?
 
kHT's A. That is a loaded question and one needs to know what space & type of Brugmansia we are talking about.  If

you don't have alot of space then one will have to deal with what one has.  One needs to know which Brugmansia we are

talking about as some are more a shrub shape and will need more space then one that grows upward.  I like to tell folks

to put the shrub between two taller ones.  But again we need to talk about what environment each requires.  Do you put a shade lover in full sun?  You can if you have a taller one that will give it enough shade. This is why it's important to

know which one when buying or trading. Would you give a B. Frosty Pink, a sun-shrub type the same space as a B. Charles Grimaldi a taller-partial sun lover?   A general rule is about 3 to 5 feet and you still may have them crowd each other

if they do their thing. Remember you can nip to shape.

 
Q. I have seen your lovely Brugmansia Garden photos but yet you don't offer very many cuttings, why?
 
kHT's A.  Most of our cuttings are usually gone before they are grown locally as I have folks that have spoken for the

old time favorites that we are keeping.  Most are new seedlings that we grow out for testing and these are up to the hybridizers to test or cull.  Then we grow some that aren't going to be released and some that didn't bloom so we didn't

cut them back at all.  We tend to not grow the popular higher priced Brugmansia and if we do take cuttings to root in

the fall that is a big if, if they make it.  Living up north makes a lot of different in what you can and can't offer. 

Again we are more of a test and research garden.

 
Q. I have seen your B. Shorty's and would like to know more about it?

  

   
 
kHT's A.  I have been asked many times about her and folks requesting cuttings of her.  I have talked about her on

some of the garden sites and just recently someone requested I do a full page on her.  We are just currently posting

only a few photos of her, we are tired of the naysayers saying this is only a B. Maya.  I will say it again, it's

dangerous to pick up a plant without doing some research and will state B. Shorty's Variegated was found locally. 

Again she was tested against B. Maya and sorry but B. Maya didn't come close to what we saw.  B. Maya can't even

take the full sun or heat that B. Shorty's requires to take off.  We have lost our beloved B. Shortys and there are

just a few folks that have her.

 

 
Q. I would like to obtain unique Brugmansia and Daturas, can you recommend where I can do so?
 
kHT's A. Without sounding harsh, what is 'unique' to one isn't the same to another and without some direction I can't

answer this one.  One can look at the organizational sites and I'm sure they list folks that sell?  I have my favorite

folks but I need more of a direction, please? Please do some research before you do buy!
 

Q.  I have seen some beautiful photos of Brugmansia and I'm confused as to go about obtaining one?  Do I buy seeds or

is it best to get cuttings?
 
kHT's A.  If you see one you like it's best to get cuttings or a rooted plant that way you know what you are getting

is what you see.  But again I'll warn you, know your grower and exactly what you are getting, be a wise buyer! If you

go the seed route, you will not get the plant you see, you should know the parentage of said seeds you are obtaining

seeds.
 
Do you know what goes with those seeds?  All packaged should be labeled with the Mother plant first, then the Father

(pollen) second, Hybridizer's name and the date is always great. Some folks will note it sun or shade but again it's

really depend on the mother's location to some of us, the mother is the key to some of this.  If the seeds are open pollinated it should be noted on the package, keep records!  When it comes time to register the seedling if you go

the seed route it's really up to the hybridizer, you are just the seed parent. You can name after the first year

according to the information but again I don't recommend this as some of us know one year isn't enough time!! Nor

have other tested this plant to know if it will grow outside the area of which only one plant had been growing. 

Again a rush to name can be the down fall of some of these plants and the name of the hybridizer to boot!!

 
Q. I see you don't have any information on Brugmansia Diseases or insects, why?
 
kHT's A.  The two know Brugmansia sites have plenty of information and we are not an expert in this.  This is the

first year we have dealt with mites and we are learning.  So far I haven't has the problems others have due to our

practice of dealing with folks and putting plants in Quarantine.  One should know that these do carry the gene for

viruses so if one keeps them healthy, no pest one should do well.  I have had folks send me photos and I'll give

them honest input as to what I see.

 
Q. I want a special Brugmansia to grow, can you recommend one?
 
kHT's A. ? 'Special' There are many special Brugmansias out there and I'm not comfortable in recommending one until

I know what environment you will be growing them in.  I keep saying that all Brugmansia are not created equally and

shouldn't be treated the same.  It's just like all growers have their ways of growing plants, gardeners are special

folks!  Plants are the same way.  If one has a greenhouse one should try B. Snowbank!!  It's does best in heat and

lots of light!  It's one of our favorite but again we can't seem to keep one growing more than a couple years.  I have

killed 12 so far and just purchased #13!!  B. Culebra is in our book the most 'special' Brugmansia one can get their

hands on!  Why, if you have read all the information on Brugmansia, toss that out the door as B. Culebra is totally different! 
 

Q. I have read some of your posts on 'Variegated' plants and I'm confused as to why the one I have isn't taking off?
 
kHT's A. I have tested almost all the variegated plants out there except the new reverse variegated, Sunsport, Axel Rose

and the new variegated Jamie.  These plants are to be grown year round and each have different growing conditions. Also

one shouldn't judge to quickly these sports/tetraploid, they are not all the same!! One needs to look at everything from leaves, blooms, growing habits in seeing what one has.  If you should find one, do make sure you record all the

information as you will be questioned by the naysayers.  These are extremely special!
 
From my list here is what we have found.
 
Variegated
B. Peaches & Cream ~ pure shade
B. Sunset ~ a little more sun than B. P&C
B. Maya ~ A little more sun than B. Sunset
B. Shorty's Variegated ~ pure sun and heat
B. Miner's Claim ~ shade with morning sun
B. Jamie ~ No experience
B. Variegated ~ heat with morning sun
B. Klerx Variegated ~ heat w/morning sun
B. Grazie Variegata ~ a Monika Gottschalk Hybrid
          (some say looks like B. Maya?)

B.  Katrien Bonte, from Germany sport off Isabella 

 

 

Reverse Variegated
B. Axel Rose ~ No experience
B. Sunsport ~ No experience
B  TNN's Reverse Variegate ~ 5 years testing slowly moving
to more sun, hates direct sun all day
 

Q. You talks very little on Brugmansia Diseases, why?
 
kHT's A. Why, because we are extremely careful in what we do. There are sites and articles out there that folks

have written whom have had or are more knowledgeable and we suggest that folks do some research.  Do read from many

sources not just one to get a better understanding. 
 

Q. What are some things we can do to make sure we don't get a virus? 
 
kHT's A. Learn as much about these plants before obtaining one, knowing that they do carry a virus gene is really

important.  Asking questions and taking some steps make sure you do the right things.  Always clean your tools properly, don't over do on the fertilizing, know what critters effect these plants and have a set schedule when fertilizing and spraying.  Don't neglect them and most of all know whom you are dealing with.  If you read our Brugmansia page it should

give you a basic start.  So many times folks treat all their plants the same, sorry to say plants are not all the same,

just like all humans are not the same.  Again if you have a concern about a plant and have photos send them our way and

we will see if we can help. 
 

Q. Can you post photos of some special Brugmansia leaves for me?  I would like to see B. Snowbank, B. Culebra,

B. arborea, your B. Sanguinea orange and the B. sang. large leaf you have talked about.
 
kHT's A. Here are the leaves that you requested.
 
   
  B. Snowbank              B. sang. orange
  
  B. arborea                         B. culebra
 
 
B. Sang lg leaf, which some say it appears to be vulc.
 

Q. I'm new to these plants; I'm confused as to which ones to get.  There are so many pretty ones, which ones should

I get?
 
kHT's A.  Please take time to read our website as ABADS site is currently not available.  I will recommend B. Charles Grimaldi, B. Frosty Pink for the first plants so that you can get to know what to expect.  I wouldn't recommend the

doubles for a couple years as they can be tricky if you don't know what to expect. Granted they are so pretty but

until you know what you are doing I'd stay away. Also read up on the virus information as this is something you will

need to know. You know we will answer all questions we get if you want to send one to us.

 

 

  We have now gone to just the basic information here and the questions from 2008/2009, for our website, all advanced information is now being shared on our forums. (14+ years of our research)  Come join us at the forums to learn more.